On
the 19th of March 2010 my friend Galeo and I did a
presentation at the wonderful but too brief institution that was the
annual Freewheeling Festival, held at Stanford Valley. Our idea was
to share, through words and images, the inspiration and importance of
the simple act of walking. Among other things we read alternate
pieces of our own writings, that had been inspired by
walking. Between us on a screen ran a continual set of images from
our various walks, mostly of mountains. Black and white, fading into
each other. We called the presentation, Giving Voice to Walking.
These
were the pieces I read:
It
was just a walk. A short walk. And yet something perhaps about the
low angle of the sun’s light from behind the clouds, and the
response it invoked in the landscape, and in the scrubby
vegetation at my feet,
something perhaps about the power of the
wind’s steady scent off the ocean, something about following the
curve of the coastal cliffs, in and out of coves and headlands that
the waves had shaped over ages, something perhaps about sensing
companionship of place, that brought it all together, so that in
walking there, I was translating pure inspiration into motion.
It
was just a walk. For an hour or two, alone one afternoon, in early
summer, with the passing of a cold front.
*******
What
has been my walk in the world? Where has walking taken me? What has
been solved for me by my walking?
For
40-odd years I have walked. And most times now that I visit my father
in the place where the very first steps of my walk into life began,
where for seven years I walked each day between home and school,
where I walked my first solo forays into the mountains, and where a
long relationship with walking became ingrained into my body and my
being. Most times now that I revisit this place, I make a short
walking pilgrimage. Through the familiar streets of my youth down to
the bench, and out beyond it to the promontory, to walk the memories
among those stones. From the bench, with my mothers name on it, I can
look back, and I can look out across the long stretch of low tide
sand, beyond the black rocks. Though their footprints there have long
been obliterated by the tides, in my step and its desire within me,
something of them remains, to follow. My parents were walkers. They
walked almost every day of their life together, until the day my
fathers spine snapped and his legs no longer balanced both his body
and his will and he walked no more. Now I bring him stories of where
I have walked and where his grandchildren have walked, and I think he
is proud of us, for walking.
*******
What
has been my walk? Where has walking taken me?
I
have been changed by walking, by the lift in spirits of a brief walk
after a constraining and frustrating day, or the dawn inspiration to
a new one, by the cumulative effect of 12 days on the path, or the
growing awareness of half a life time’s engagement with walking.
I
have conversed with the land through walking. I have walked with
purpose and I’ve wandered. And each has brought me different
things, and taken me places that I would otherwise not have reached.
Inevitably
walking takes us to good places, along good ways of getting there.
*******
In
the past I have often walked alone. Now, more often, I take others on
my walks.
As
we approach the mountain, in silence, it is as if this valley, in
welcoming us, draws us in, so that what appeared from below and
outside, to be merely part of the slope of the mountain above,
reveals instead a space that holds us, a space and a passage into
these mountains that inspires us to look and discover and explore
further and deeper.
And
then at the end of three days in these mountains suddenly everyone is
gone and I am alone and it is silent. I am left with my belongings
scattered around the cave and the deep after-glow of the experience
inside me. I don’t want to rush. I want to immerse myself in this
space and hold it closely to me like a beloved for a while. I pack
deliberately, steadily, consciously. I am profoundly alive,
connected, thankful, amazed. It is possible to feel like this. It is
possible to achieve this level of connectedness to life.
One
of my last steps in my solitary farewell is always to move slowly
across the length of the cave, looking carefully for anything left
behind, that may desecrate in some small way the sacred integrity of
that beautiful space. Then finally I lift my pack and I pause,
standing for a moment to take it all in one last time – the space,
the silence, the shape of what has just transpired, and then I step
out from the cave to follow the others. I must catch them on the path
below and see them safely down and then away, away onto each
individual’s walk from this magical mountain.
*******
A
good path is the accumulated collective wisdom, of the best route to
follow, but it is only one way to cross a landscape. There are many
others.
Once
following a route to a peak in the pre-dawn light, on a trail that I
needed for speed, I reached a point where it faded and I lost it. I
followed the direction it seemed to be going, but there was no
indication in the plants or the land that it continued that way. Odd.
It seemed to have ended. And so I paused. And it was in sensing where
I would go, if I were not following a path, rather than looking for
it, that I found it again.
When
I have no desire for paths, then I let the land simply direct where I
should walk and then walking becomes moving in response to the
earth’s pull. It becomes an intimate conversation between my being
and the earth, conducted below the frequency of the rational mind.
Walking
frees us to do that. To take action based on the knowing in our
bodies rather than the thinking in our minds. When I really walk, my
whole body knows which way to go, and can take me there.
*******
I
remember one grey day I tried to walk away from myself into a brewing
storm and into the pain and discomfort it offered to unleash on me.
The
murky light with which that storm smothered the mountains, and the
cold wind forcing down on them, seemed to strip them of beauty and
there was an ugliness in the rocks and the plants and the land that I
had not seen before in these mountains, and in different storms I’d
walked before. It took some time and distance in that harsh place to
realise that because I could see no beauty within me, I could see
none around me either. How clearly in walking the internal is
reflected in the external.
But
somewhere in even all that gloom, there was a clear, core beauty in
the walk that I could only see much later, only long after I had
returned. And I was reminded once more of one of the gifts of
walking: to unearth again something of our richness that we may have
lost within us.
*******
I
have walked best when I have walked furthest. When consecutive days
have been devoted to walking, when walking has been the purpose with
which I have arisen each morning, and walking has carried me through
each day. And I have walked best especially into those particular
mountains whose boulders lie strewn across their slopes like
scattered parts of my soul. Then I have really walked.
Walked
into cold and rain with the peaks hidden in cloud, but as we walked
things slowly warmed and opened up before us. Walked many valleys
where I used each heartbeat to the full and where with ease one
impossibly bouldered and beautiful valley opened to the next, in
testimony to old path makers. Walked the rich tones of browns that
are painted into restio vlaktes framed by rock. where
silhouetted ridgelines are inhabited by timeless beings. Where
fragile floral beauty co-exists with stone.
There
I endured the hot, still air of midday valley floors to reach the
cooling breezes of the higher ground. In choosing to walk that line I
chose all parts of it, both easy and hard, both invigorating and
exhausting. But still slipped into the error of wishing, “May it
always be like this,” or “Please, when will this end?”
There
I found stillness within the rhythmical balance of each next step.
There I really walked.
*******
These
wanderings of mine, I sometimes ask, are they a restless search?
Where have they taken me? What has been solved for me by walking?
Looking
out from the bench with my mother’s name on it, out across the long
stretch of low tide sand, I see them walking, out beyond the black
rocks. I like to think of them as not looking for anything, other
than what is there - this beach, this sea, these rocks, this moment
in the slow, incessant rhythm of the tides, and this expanse of white
sand, swept clean by wind and water, this expanse of white sand on
which to leave the footprints of their walk.
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